
Get ready...this is gonna be one LONG blog. The last time I wrote, I had quit my job on Wall St., dove straight into a new gig, and packed my bags for Europe. Now, I am barely back from Europe and have done more in 2.5 weeks than is humanly possible OR healthy. Here are the lengthy details... you may want to grab a drink or snack because you might miss a meal reading this.
Adam and I flew into Dublin, Ireland the morning of May 10. It was the smoothest flight of my life. Upon arrival, we navigated our way to a friend of Adam's to stay the night (I say 'friend' very casually because in reality, he had only met Juanita once time a year ago at a work party). But she contacted him saying we could stay after seeing on Facebook that we were going to be in Dublin. When we arrived, because it was early in the day, she had her friend Annet meet us at the flat to make sure we got in. Then much to our surprise, Annet took the hospitality one step further and drove us into town, pointed out the perfect Irish pub for a mid-morning pint, and waved us goodbye. So although there is a fine line between controlled social drinking and full fledged alcoholism, we decided 2 pints of Guinness at 11 am was totally acceptable while on vacation, especially in Ireland. Then it was off for the first dish of our 'European Food Tour'...Bangers & Mash. After literally diving head first into my Bangers & mash (jetlag was beginning to rear its ugly head), we quickly paid the bill and found the nearest park...an hour long nap in the grass ensued. I'm sure we looked homeless, but I have to say, it made the biggest difference. Afterwards, we weaved our way to the Guinness Museum, where we both learned how to pull the 'perfect pint' and then enjoyed our pints over a panoramic view of Dublin. That night, our beautiful hostess and her husband treated us to a Thai dinner in Dalfry, a high end area of Dublin near the beach. In the morning, Juanita drove us to the ferry that took us across the Irish Sea to Holyhead in Wales.
From there, we experienced the most scenic train ride across the U.K. ...rolling hills, fields of marigold, herds of sheep, sleepy cows, etc. It was gorgeous and made the long ride much more bearable. We landed in London, England mid-afternoon just in time to navigate the Tube during rush hour. I was literally sandwiched between Adam and my huge backpack. (SIDE NOTE: Instead of a suitcase, I toted all my things across Europe in a huge backpack. My shoulders are now ripped and dare I say, I could give Cale a run for his money in a boxing match.) But back to London, we made our way to the flat of a friend of mine from high school, Chris Hopkins. He lives in London now and said that we could hang out with him that night and sleep at his friend Ricky's (who had a futon). They took us out for Indian food and then we all had drinks on Ricky's rooftop before Adam and I went out to a neighborhood bar. There, we sparked up a conversation with a couple our age and they ended up buying all our drinks. We woke up very late the next day...I'm sure I needn't say more.
Then it was off to France after a plate of fish and chips and pictures outside Buckingham palace. (SIDE NOTE: In the first 5 days of our trip, we saw 5 countries. Quantity over quality, people. We basically did a 'Hit & Run' of Europe.) Because we had nowhere to stay in Calais, France (the port town), we called our French friend Ben (who had grown up in Calais) to see if he mnight be able to suggest a hostel. He did even better and told us his mother would host us AND cook us dinner. We were overwhelmed by the hospitality because she had no notice whatsoever, barely spoke any English, and did not know us from Adam (no pun intended). She picked us up at the port and other than the few awkward silences (when she ran out of English and we ran out of French), we couldn't believe our stroke of luck. When we arrived, we met Ben's 13 year old sister Solene, and because she was studying English, things went a little smoother. Ben's mother cooked us the most fantastic meal, consisting of four courses - a tomato and feta salad (with fresh chives that she plucked from her garden), steak with authentic Dijon mustard and sauteed vegetables, a platter of French cheeses with a baguette, and strawberries dipped in cream and sugar for dessert. Oh...and a bottle of wine...how could I forget? (SIDE NOTE: This may have been one of my favorite nights because we stopped being tourists and instead became guests.) In the morning, she dropped us at the train station, but not before sending us off with sandwiches and water bottles.
We were off to Bruges, Belgium...a tiny town with lots of character. We checked into a hostel there and explored the city. Bruges is divided by tons of canals, has a very medieval feel, and thankfully, most people spoke English. Adam and I enjoyed a dinner of mussels and Belgian beer. Afterwards, I accidentally lit my hair on fire while leaning too far over the candle on the dinner table (In the moment, the only thing I could imagine was my gay hairstylist Ezequiel passing out from distress...I think I will NOT tell him the next time I go in). The next morning, we climbed the Belfry Tower (the town's bell tower), rode bikes along the city's perimeter by the water, and tried Belgian waffles, chocolate, and cheese...OH MY! (Have I ever mentioned how much I LOVE cheese?...I'm thinking of moving to Belgium).
Later that day, we were off to Amsterdam in the Netherlands. Now, although Amsterdam has a bad rep for it's....how shall I say it?....open-mindedness, it is actually a very charming, canal-strewn city. We stayed at an Asian-run hotel called 'The Flippper', which was...you guessed it! lovingly decorated with dolphin pictures and posters. I almost expected to hear the show's theme song 'They call him Flipper! Flipper! Flipper! Faster than lightning...'. Those Asians really know how to spice things up. After check-in, we had Nepalese food (random I know) and went to check out Amsterdam's claim to fame 'The Red Light District.' I have NEVER in my life seen anything like it. I needed someone to pick my jaw up off the floor more than once. If you have ever been, you know what I mean. If you haven't, I will spare you the details. The next day, we hit a street market and got so caught up spending our money on trinkets that we missed our train...TWICE. Oops. But do not fear, we caught the third train and off we went for Paris, the city of love. (SIDE NOTE: I will need to back up here and explain a few things. Adam and I joined an online network called Couchsurfing.org. It's basically a way to connect fellow globetrotters. People all over the world offer up their couches for free, in the expectation that you will return the favor someday. 'What about serial killers?' you say? Why yes, on first glance, it appears pretty sketchy, but Adam hosted 4 French guys a few weeks back (including Ben that I mentioned earlier) and we are STILL alive.) So once we got to Paris, Ben returned the favor and put us up on his futon. Because he was working, his cousin Marlene and her boyfriend Vincent took us under their wing. They accompanied us to dinner, translated the menu, ordered for us, and spoke just enough English to make it enjoyable. I had the best steak of my life and promptly passed out. The next day, Adam and I walked all over Paris. We saw Notre Dame, The Louvre, the Arch, and even climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower (SIDE NOTE: At this point, my calves were catching up with my shoulders. I was now ready to challenge Cale to a kickboxing match). The night ended with Ben, his roommates, and a huge spread of sushi. Our last day in Paris, Marlene and Vincent took us to a beautiful park in the middle of the city. It had rolling hills, waterfalls, and beautiful flowers. It was the perfect way to end our stay in Paris.
Now that we had breezed through Northern Europe faster than a fat kid breezes through an all-you-can-eat buffet, we got to the 'good' part of the trip....the 'relaxing' part. We took a train to Avignon, a small town in the south of France. Another one of the French guys, named Noe, was hosting us there. We finally reached warm weather and the whole feel of our trip changed from crazy sightseeing marathon to relaxed summer vacation. Noe and his roommate Laurence picked us up with a bottle of wine in tow and drove us to a tiny village overlook high in the mountains of Avignon. We shared a bottle of wine and watched the sun set. It was perfection. Then Noe cooked us dinner and we enjoyed the company of our hosts. The next morning, we explored Avignon, which was the original city of the Popes, before Rome. We toured the Palace of the Popes (along with a group of rowdy French preschoolers) and then unwinded at an outdoor lunch in a local courtyard. My dish was a cross between fish and mashed potatoes, followed by a lemon tart. I took a picture of it. It was THAT good.
Then it was on to Cannes, France, where the 2009 Film Festival was in full gear. A friend of mine from college (Anna Beaver) was leading the UGA Study Abroad program there and put us up for 3 nights in her apartment one block from the beaches of the Mediterranean. (SIDE NOTE: I'm pretty sure I will be naming my first born 'Anna' as an expression of gratitude). Cannes was FANTASTIC! We laid out at the beach every afternoon (among throngs of topless women over 60), had great seafood (I am now officially addicted to mussels), and even got a glimpse of the Film Festival. Quinton Tarantino's new movie 'Inglorious Bastards' premiered one of the nights we were there, so we assumed the roles of screaming pre-pubescent girls and hit the red carpet. We saw Quinton, Sharon Stone, Mike Myers, 'Ryan' from The Office, and most importantly Brad and Angelina! Afterwards, we viewed the Italian opera 'Don Giovanni' on a huge projector screen over the water. We sat in huge beach chairs and drank wine on the beach with 2 American guys that we had met earlier in the day, one of whom was headed back to Iraq the next day to finish up his service.
Slightly less pale and much more relaxed, we left Cannes and headed to Cinque Terre, Italy, which I will fondly refer to as 'my idea of HEAVEN.' Cinque Terre, which in Italian means 'Five Lands', is a string of 5 villages along the northwestern coast of Italy. Each village is connected by ground path, and lies on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. It is breathtaking. Being the savvy traveler that he is, Adam found a campsite in the neighboring village of Moneglia where we could pitch the tent we'd been hauling around on our backs. The unique thing about this campsite was that our tent was on a platform out above the Mediterranean. We woke up each day to the warm sunshine and gentle lap of the waves against the rocks. (SIDE NOTE: We spent three nights there and I am now considering a permanent move). Each day, we got up early, took a train into Cinque Terre and hiked from village to village (and by 'hike', I mean 'climbed'...or even 'scaled'). This was straight up the side of the mountain. Adam joked that instead of the 'Stairway to Heaven', it was more like the 'Stairway to Hell'. The way my whole body ached the next day was enough indication to support his theory. But the hike led us through vineyards and flower gardens, all the while overlooking the sea and down onto the villages. When we finally made it to Corneglia (the middle village), we climbed over huge rocks and flung our dehydrated, overheated bodies into the Mediterranean. The water was amazingly clear and salty. The next day, we went back Vernazza (the 4th village) and rented kayaks. We took off to teh open sea and as the waves started to crash against my kayak, I quickly realized that my body was utterly exhausted from the day before. We aimed for the first beach in site to rest and just as luck would have it, the closest beach was a NUDE beach! (I'm not even kidding...MORE old Italian women and a few young exhibitionists roaming the beach in their birthday suits). Just our luck. Ha.
The next morning, we hated to even leave. Cinque Terre was by far the best part of the trip, but we had plans to go to Rome. Looking back, we should have stayed. Things took a very ridiculous turn for the worst in Rome. It all started when we went to get gelato. As the man was scooping my gelato, he asked me in broken English if I would like it 'special', to which I replied 'no.' Apparently, he decided to make both our cones 'special' anyways. We tried to object...but it was finished. So we said 'oh well' and went to pay...much to our chagrine, the register totaled to 30 EUROS!!!!??!?!?? And the mean-looking, cat-eyed woman behind the counter wouldn't listen to our argument, looked like she might chop off our hands if we didn't pay, and demanded the money. UGH. For those of you who don't know the current conversion rates, that's about $20 an icecream cone. Enough to send 5 kids to college....or at least get 5 American kids icecream from the icecream truck. To make matters worse, the second we walked outside, I watched as my icecream plunged to its demise in a bush. The man had given me a cracked cone. Enough to make a girl cry.
Rome was less than impressive...so we took the train to Naples to fly out the next day. Things just kept getting better and better, people. We bought Metro tickets and got on a train to our hostel. When we tried to leave the Metro station, there was an attendant checking tickets. We showed her ours confidently, having paid like everyone else...but ALAS, we had not validated our tickets. (SIDE NOTE: Apparently, you have to swipe them in this machine that's hidden on the wall, to which no one goes to swipe their cards). The attendant spoke NOT A WORD of English and basically told us we could not leave the station until we paid her the fine of 37 EUROS (about $60 bucks). Keep in mind that these tickets were paid for and only cost us 1 EURO a person. So...at that point, I burst into tears...having reached utmost exhaustion and ran outside the station to have a pity party while Adam paid for our release.
When we got to our hostel, we checked in and paid the nice gentleman behind the counter. Literally two minutes later, we checked our email and received an email notification saying that 'There have been MAJOR CHANGES to your flight. Instead of May 28....you will now be flying out May 30.' To which, I began to cry again. After an hour sorting out the problem on the phone, Adam tells me that the airline has shut down indefinitely. Thankfully, I found another flight on Expedia and was able to get us both back fairly inexpensively. We checked right out of the hostel we had already paid for (with no refund of course), and took a train back to Rome....then took a train to the airport....then flew to Frankfurt, Germany. We spent 12 hours overnight sleeping on the airport benches, huddled together for warmth before flying 9 hours back to New York on 'Air India.' It was one of the those experiences that you'd rather forget. Maybe one day I will be able to look back on this and laugh. But in the moment, I was not a happy camper.
So....just to clarify, the last part of the trip did NOT, in any way, spoil the essence of our trip to Europe. It just made it slightly more interesting. Adam and I had a wonderful time... saw some very beautiful things... and expanded our life experiences that much more. I came back with a tan (the first tan of my life), some souvenirs, a deeper respect and love for Adam, a greater appreciation for what I have in the United States, and some funny stories to share.
I am now 2 conferences down for work, and I am in the process of planning the next few months. Looks like I may be travelling to New Mexico, Southern California, and Philedelphia this summer, and there is a possibility for international travel as well.
Life is good. I feel very blessed. Someone is watching out for me up there.
Hope you are all doing well! I love you and missed you dearly while away!
LAUREN